One Way United

Well, we are now in Antigua, Guatemala; just resting for a day after the last few nights of little sleep (Jordan will cover that in his next post on TIKAL).  But my job is to tell you about the wonderful, beautiful, rustic, friendly country of El Salvador, even though we were only there for 2 nights.

It took a lot of pushing on my part to go to El Salvador as were very crunched for time on our way to Guatemala.  I had always wanted to go because when I worked at Delfinos, all of the cooks were from El Salvador; it was really what sparked my interest in Latin America.  Unfortunately, however, El Salvador is slightly out of the way when heading towards Guatemala; and out of all the Central American countries, it is the least touristy and the least visited.  But my pushing won out and we hopped on an 11 hour bus in Managua that went straight to the capital, San Salvador.

San Salvador was a delight.  The cab drivers didn’t try to rip us off (like in Nicaragua), a random man stopped and hugged us as we were trekking to our hotel (ok, he might have been drunk, not really sure), people didn’t hassle us for taxi rides, hotels, and tours, and people were always more than ready to help out with directions or information.  I believe the friendliness of the people owes itself in part to the fact that El Salvador has not yet been jaded by tourism; therefore, people are always ready to help and show a genuine interest in you.  Anyway, our hotel, Hotel Florida, was lovely and a great place to rest after so much travelling.  That night, we set out for the mall where we enjoyed Pizza Hut and TCBY (we are such Westerners, I know!)

The following morning we set out for the small Colonial Town of Suchitoto.  This town is where all of my old Delfinos coworkers were from so I had heard all these stories about how great it was.  Suchitoto did not disapoint!  Granted, there was not much in the way of tourist activities there, but I think that was part of the charm.  When we checked into the hotel, the lady who owned it had her husband give us a ride to the lake (we didn’t even have to ask).  As though that wasn’t enough kindness, she gave us a huge plastic bag with her family’s swim suits and towels for us to use (we had left most of our luggage in San Salvador).  Later that night, this little boy tried to teach us how to spin a-top-on-a-string thing, and was cracking us up as he made fun of Jordan’s many unsuccesful tries.  He would go around showing people (all that night and the next morning) how Jordan threw the top.  It was HILARIOUS!  Between interacting with him, eating in laid back restaurants, hanging out at the lake, and browsing in all of the Artesian shops, the best we can describe Suchitoto is TRANQUILO (we have agreed that there is no sufficient English equivalent to this word).  Jordan also said that the town might win the “Friendliest Award” out of all the towns he’s been to on his entire trip!

So all and all, we were only able to spend 2 days in El Salvador.  But it was enough to win me over to the county; I hope to go back some day and maybe do some volunteer/mission work of some kind.  While El Salvador might not be a top tourist draw, its richest resource is definetly the people! Love it, love it!

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So a lot has gone on since we last gave you guys some news. I’ll try to keep this brief. Our Costa Rican experience ended on a sour note. We got to this town Liberia and were waiting at the bus station to take us to the Nicaraguan border. We set our bags down and were sitting a foot away from them having breakfast. At bus stations you always have people trying to sell us stuff and numerous guys came up to us while we were eating to try and sell us music CD’s (most likely pirated). Very rude indeed but we did our best to just say no and keep eating. But we got up to leave we found that while we’d been distracted by one of these guys someone had made off with my small backpack. Needless to say I was livid. I lost my Bible, my journal, and a book that was a birthday present from Jordan and Amanda, all of which upset me to various degrees. The monumental loss though was my Ipod was also in that bag, and my Ipod is where we’ve been storing all our photos over the trip. Think of that: six months worth of traveling photos lost in a second. I’ll not repeat the words I used here as it might offend someone’s sensibilities. But in general I was just majorly dissappointed in the human race. Such is life. Fortunately we have the site where we’ve been storing pictures and I always put the best ones up, so thank God we didn’t lose them all.

So we went to Nicaragua and took a boat to this island called Ometepe. It’s shaped like a figure 8 and has two volcanos on it. This place was lush with flora and fauna and a total paradise. The first day it rained cats and dogs. So we sat in our hotel and played cards and marveled at the pet deer named Bambi (I’m not kidding). The next days we lounged by the beach and explored the surrounding area. Jordan and Amanda went kayaking in the serene waters one day, but mostly we were just here to relax. Mission accomplished. We also admired the wildlife as just a few yards from our hotel was a large group of howler monkeys. They make a ton of noise I’ll tell you.

Then we took a bus to Managua, the capital. We were only passing through as we wanted to get north quickly. We were standing on the bus waiting to get off and figure things out when the taxi guys came along. These guys clamor for your business and it can be hard to disuade them. Sometimes you have to say no more than ten times before they’ll leave you alone. This time we had two guys offering their ride. One of them shoved the other one right out of the way and started picking up our bags. Does this strike you as sketchy? It did to us, but we went along anyway. So he’s driving like a maniac and I’m praying for my life when he decides to stop for gas. He asks us to pay him now so he can fill up and the price he says makes our jaws drop: a little over $10 a person. I should also mention that initially he had said his fare was a certain amount per kilometer and we were not going that far, so we had a complete turn around here. So were arguing with the driver about how ridiculous that is to only go a mile and he’s getting rather angry over it. He then enlisted the help of some fellow cab drivers to convince us this was a fair asking price. We can’t understand the majority of what people are saying so really we just have a lot of shouthing back and forth. Then our cabby starts to call a cop over to settle this. The cop didn’t seem interested in actually coming over to the car although Jordan and I were ready to fight this out. But then we decided it would be better to just pay the man what he wanted and he would take us where we were going. We realized that it wasn’t a good idea to upset the man as we were in his car and our bags were in his trunk. I had visions of getting out of the car and him just driving off with them and thought it was better to submit in this case. True to form as soon as he had his cash he did a total personality shift and became a friendly joking guy and was saying things like “Look the pretty girls are waving at you!” I found myself hoping that his crazy driving would catch up with him and his engine would fall out.

We finally got to the bus station and were hounded by people to stay at their hotel. This can be useful at times but right then it was just irritating. And it rather irks me to have people shouting “Hey gringo, this way!” We told them politely to buzz off (they didn’t listen) and bought our tickets out of the country for the next day. We ended up staying at a hostel owned by this very sweet little old couple. They were very helpful and we felt secure there. We made our way to a mall and saw the movie Cassanova, which was better than I expected it to be, and then tried to sleep in the blistering heat.

The next day we awoke at 3:30 a.m. (ugh…) and boarded the bus to San Salvador, El Salvador. The bus was airconditioned and very comfortable and the scenery of course gorgeous. We jetted straight through Honduras without stopping. Technically we can all say we’ve been in Honduras for about three hours or so but I don’t think any of us actually walked there.

We’ve made it to San Salvador where I’m currently writing this. Today we will make our way to Suchitoto for a day and tomorrow we’re on to Guatemala. Is all this exhausting? You bet it is, but it’s worth it in the end. Be sure to check our new pictures of Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Later.

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